Discussion in 'Browning Auto A-5' started by Auzzie, Apr 24, 2022.
Preserved is that an object on is original state? Not altered in anyway.
From what I interpret and this is only me, they leave in worn state but only do enough to stop deteriorating or weathering further sometimes using an original finish or technique to hold things . Antiques is where seen term used.
On another subject:
After 3 weeks and $350, the 2 custom router bits arrived as scheduled.
The vertical dimension of the profile for the lid walls could not exceed 1/4”. When I tried to set the depth, all I could attain was 13/32” or 5/32” over the design dimension. So I called my supplier and we identified and worked through the problem.
The production drawings correctly specified a flat screw to secure the pilot bearing. But production installed a ‘cap’ screw instead. So, I went to the hardware store an bought a $0.40 M4 - 0.70 x 10mm SFHCS - and it took care of the problem. Easy solution - minor set-back. Moving-on.
Being in woodworking business, I would love to see those bits. And I am surprise you have metric threads on the land of inches and miles. Were those bits made in the US?
Thanks for keeping us in the loop this is very exciting, I know nothing about the wood work but love these cases.
Biz, I ordered them from 'Orbit Tool Co.' in California. Yes, I'm surprised about the metric screw. The drawings have both metric and standard dimensions. We've been converting to metric in some industries for several years - some, more slowly than others.
I'll send you some photos of the bits. The round-over bit and mortice bit are by Freud. I use the mortice bit to inlet one side of the inside corner brackets in the base portion. The original cases have these corner brackets but they are surface-mounted with ferrier tacks. I only inlet one side of the corner bracket to provide more gluing surface on the butt joints.
'Jta5er', I'm excited, too! I finished routing the wooden portion of case #0, tonight. Will do a little sanding on the 'rounds' and start working with Tolex tomorrow. I might have trouble going to sleep, tonight. Thanks for your comments.
Wow, that looks amazing. You do good work. I can't wait to see the finish project.
You have my attention and appreciation. Nice workmanship.
That is amazing!
Keep up the good work. Looking forward to more pictures
Thanks for your continued interest, comments, assistance, and support.
I apologize for not having a pictorial update and offer caution to be patient. This is new to me. I have been called 'anal' but I rather term my approach as 'methodical', 'logical', and 'thorough'. After all, this is not just a one-time blunder - I'm trying to establish a 'process' that will be repeated - why not get it 'as right' as possible in the initial stages. Therefore, this venture will seem frustratingly slow to some.
Other chores include weed-eating under crepe myrtles that my wife wishes to droop to the ground. A tall person weed-eating under crepe myrtles reminds me of Don Quixote doing battle with windmills. My result is different in the sense that I've had to ice my lower back for the past 2 days.
I don't have a whole lot of Tolex (only enough for 5-6 cases, right now) and am being conservative - to avoid any waste. The 'cuts' for the 28" case are 36" x 16" for both the lid and the base sections - it just works-out that way due to the hinge and laps on the inside of each. So, if you lay this out ideally, you'll get 3 'cuts' per linear yard, plus a 36"x 4" strip which can be used for handles and their cove covers. The roll is supposed to be 54" wide but the first (of the 3 pieces-of-rolls the supplier had remaining), is 52" - and of course that's the first roll I pulled out of my storage box. I really don't want to waste any Tolex on a 'mock-up' of a rounded corner condition - but have remained hesitant to cut into a 36"x 16" piece with little confidence I won't screw it up.
So, during my convalescence from the bi-weekly Battle of the Crepe Myrtles (6 of the bastards), I've been thinking through how to start covering the first corner. It occurred to me to use the same material I used for a mock-up of how to place the liner in the 34" x 8" buffalo hide case I converted to Superposed blocking and new lining, a few years ago. So, I've decided to experiment with shipping/wrapping paper, scissors, and transparent tape. Once I gain familiarity with what I'll be cutting away, line orientation (perpendicular or parallel to the case lines), and the lap sequences - I'll graduate to a thicker/stiffer red resin paper, X-acto knife, and tape. It's cheaper than Tolex. It’s also 36” wide - coincidence? Maybe.
While this may seem a little 'timid' in approach - everyone has to do what works for them. The beauty of this exercise will be........once I make the cuts on the resin paper, I will cover the lid and base with resin paper (essentially all 8 rounded corners and 4 end caps), then THAT piece of resin paper will become a general pattern (which can easily be revised) for Tolex (and maybe leather) fabric layouts, on future cases for 28 bbls.
As I branch-out and take-on 30", 32", 2-bbl cases and/or 2-gun cases - I'll cover them similarly and retain those patterns for future applications. Obviously, there will be more waste per linear yard for the bigger cases. So, I intend to run and cut materials for a 2-bbl case, next (because my 1955 FN D5 30" 2-bbl with 14" long full beavertail forearms, deserves a case and it won't fit in a standard Model SX - or Auto-V equivalent 'AX' case) using one of the full 54"-wide rolls to try to minimize waste, even though it wouldn't hurt to have some scraps for experimental purposes.
This latest revelation is a little surprising - it could not possibly have come from me - it is more as if someone else (in spirit) is directing me. It's really neat.
Have a wonderful day!
Nice update sir. I think you should give yourself some credit. I know from attempting the leather butt pad that one wrong move can ruin the whole shit and caboodle. Sometimes this how we learn. I'm thinking we could help each other here. I could make those crepe myrtles disappear for you, a case that I have could use your expertise. That sounds like a win- win for both of us. Now I'm not sticking around to deal with your wife when she realizes that her myrtles are gone, but when I was married, I usually just played stupid. It may work for you.
I hear ya! Ha! Hit and run, eh?
They married us, then spend the rest of our lives trying to improve us. Where would we be without them?
‘Stupid’ would just bring a flood of anxiety and a daily revision of the rules and routine. I’ve changed my approach recently - whenever a trivial complaint is voiced, I counter with, “Hang in there, I’ll be gone, one day.”
At first, we laughed together and then she said we had to stop doing that. So, apparently the possibility is soaking-in - the transformation is slow, but 'any' at all, would be amazing which is probably what 'they're' thinking, too.
Timing is everything. Be kind to one another.
Brief update 7/30/22 for those, interested.
The resin paper was a good but futile, 4-hour exercise in frustration. I realized Tolex has properties of its own, which are unlike paper or leather. So, I squared-up the end of one of the other 2 rolls and sacrificed a small scrap of material. One of the other 2 rolls is actually a dissimilar texture which I will sacrifice portions thereof, for mock-ups. After the 3rd 'corner' mock-up with Tolex (on a radius-edged 2 x 4 block), I am initially satisfied with the result and appearance. In so-doing, I stumbled upon a gluing technique - which is more like 'soldering' but, with glue.
Amazingly, once 'set', it is basically bullet-proof. I could not remove the Tolex from the block without destroying the Tolex - that's encouraging in a highly prone-to-wear area with multiple 'cuts' and laps.
One set-back so far: I'm not completely satisfied with the adhesion on the hinge mock-up, nor Tolex to wood test. Spray adhesive may be satisfactory for larger/flat surfaces and I have had good success in that application - it has lasted 6 years so far, which is how old my can of spray adhesive is, too. I may not have (in my enthusiasm and haste to realize results too quickly) allowed the spray glue to 'set' long-enough before sticking the 2 surfaces together. So, I'll re-do that mock-up and do a little more R&D.
I have warned that this might be a slow process. I'm not content to whip-up something and just call it 'good' - I loathe anything that comes-out 'half-baked' using the wrong ingredients.
[Edit on 7/31/22] - mon Amis, ‘Biz’ et ‘captjsjr’ shared that the shelf life of most glues is 6-12 months - thus the failure of my 6-year-old can of spray glue. I have ‘new’ glue so I’ll do all 8 corners for a ‘bite’ test to check for any closure issues (alignment and clearances) before covering the base and lid. In the meantime, I’ve made some re-usable glue/clamp rails that are the ‘negative’ profile of the side rails (for the lid) - to hold the Tolex tight to the wood until the glue sets.
Thanks for your interest and patience. Happy Hunting!
Here is interesting looking one that popped up on line recently
What I like about that case is the receiver lays ‘bolt-up’ and is ergonomically pleasing for a right-hander to pick-up without having to reposition the grip in hand. But whichever hand you remove the receiver from its case depends on whether it is necessary to open the bolt to assemble the forearm and barrels. You either have to switch hands a couple times or not. I sold my ‘75 Mag 12 duck gun a few years back and always used a slip case - so I haven’t really thought of the sequence involved in removing receiver from a hard case, mag cap, forearm, barrel, then forearm and cap. I’m more familiar with Superposed assembly/disassembly and it’s basically a simple 2-handed, 3-4 step operation and doesn’t require putting any parts on the bench or tailgate.
I saw an airways style case that had been reconfigured. It became obvious that the shooter was left-handed. So this will be an option if I get to the point of offering replica cases on a custom basis.
Yep I want one of these after I get my prewar cases.
Thats one bad ass case.
That IS a 'busy' layout on that case. The whole presentation is quite impressive.
It's been a good week, here. A few progress photos below:
'Got the lid covered, glued, and clamped (no corners yet) - then I began covering the base portion.
This was the most impressive shot of the whole bunch - until I realized my can of glue was in the right side of that upper cabinet. One strip of tape took care of that.
You can see what I had to mask to make sure I left the ends and radiused corners free of glue.
I used the fixtures I made, to make sure there's adequate pressure on the 'lips' until the glue sets.
I think it turned-out well.....
Overall, I'm really pleased with how things are coming together.
The template for the hinge stitching layout (I made early-on), came into play today - drilling the hinge back through the same holes I drilled in the wood while waiting on router bits to arrive.
Not looking too far ahead, but for those who aren't familiar with the 1926 buffalo hide case I re-blocked and re-lined for a Superposed about 5 years ago......here's a little preview of what I hope is to come, with the current replica case......
I'll tackle the radiused corners next - experimenting with a couple of lap and gluing techniques and practice a LOT on mock-ups until I get proficient enough to work the corners on the case. I ordered some hardware and some more tools tonight. I'm building a fixture to hold the case (standing upright on one end) so I can rotate it back and forth while stitching……..like a ‘Lazy Susan’ type affair. I envision a boat seat swivel bracket coming into play.
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