I have Biz on the lookout for a straight stock that hasn’t been cut. However I am toying with the idea of converting a round knob to a straight stock. I am not real sure I have the skills or patience for a project like this. Here are some pictures of what I am working with This is an extra Belgium stock I have Top two stocks are extra Belgium stocks. The bottom is a Jap stock This is a 12 gauge American Browning stock I am leaning towards modifying the Jap or American Browning stock as they are proud enough that I could get rid of all the factory checkering. I might be getting a different 16 that needs a new stock do I hate to use the Belgium furniture. I need your guys advice. What should I do?
Win7stw: go for it buddy. I have faith in your skills. If it’s to much well, at least you gave it a shot. I am lonely down here in the bit off more then I wanted with this leather covered pad, so I can always use company.
Do it. Nothing wrong with your wood working skills. You have more talent in your little toe than my whole body. I have failed to see anything less than perfect stock work come from your stable.
Pump the brakes guys!!! Not near as easy as one would imagine at first glance. Sure, the curved trigger housing tang can be straightened to fit the straight stock. A round/square butt stock can (probably) be whittled into submission for use as a straight stock. The problem is the threaded hole on top. (The stock retaining screw hole in the upper tang on the actual receiver.) On a round/square butt receiver, the angle in which the upper hole is threaded is at a different angle as the hole for a straight stock intended receiver. Once you straighten the tang on the trigger housing guard, the screw will not be at a 90 degree angle to the threads in the receiver tang . I suppose a guy could weld the hole shut and re-tap new threads at the new angle, but........ I actually had the exact opposite problem with an A5 I found a few years ago. When I got it, the round butt stock (an aftermarket) was blatantly not fitting the curved trigger housing tang. Something was way off! It was literally held on with quacker-tape. No stock retaining screw at all. Upon further investigation, I discovered it was a straight stock receiver to begin with, someone bent the trigger housing tang down trying to get it to fit the round butt (aftermarket) stock! So, in essence, I had to go the opposite route, and convert (technically return) the trigger housing tang back to its original straight stock design, then I was able to take an extra (square butt as I recall) stock and switch it over to a straight stock. That involved a fair bit more fitting than originally thought as well.
Bill I think you missed what I am trying to accomplish. The gun this round knob would go on to be converted is already a straight stock receiver. See the first picture
So, it is merely (relatively speaking!) the wood is all you are asking about! I had to change the location of the flat area where---and pardon me for my aged memory- the tang goes into the wood. The problem is I don't remember if it was the top or bottom. I think it was on top, because I had to re do the radius on the slot where the receiver tang ends. I had to move that back a shade. I had to drill out the area surrounding the hole where the stock retaining screw goes, and then replaced that void with some two-part epoxy (I forget the brand of epoxy) I made sure I created a healthy chamfer on both sides (top and bottom) to help keep the epoxy in place. When that was cured, I CAREFULLY marked where the new hole had to be, and drill that out----ever so carefully. When it was all done, the outside final fit was darn-near factory looking. Boy, we are taxed the limits of my memory here..... The recoil of an A5 is SUPPOSED to transfer from the receiver back into the butt stock evenly between the top and bottom tang, as well as the sides ( where you can see the wood meet the rear "vertical" of the receiver. There are a few other surfaces that meet up behind the outer edges of the wood. When you look at the front of the butt stock, you will see where metal meets wood. They all have to touch the same, otherwise you will eventually beat the tar out of the wood. I had to smoke mine to make sure it was a proper fit. Maybe, just maybe, I am now on track.
The top tang fits perfect already. It’s the bottom tang that will be a chore to get inlet perfect. My plan is to glue in a dowel in the existing retaining screw hole. I will make a jig to ensure I get the new hole drilled correctly. I also need to slim the comb down as well
I think the result will be too thin at the wrist. I have a friend who has added wood to a cut stock and it looks pretty good. That’s the route I would take. (If I had the skill or the patience.) Add wood and restore the original stock.
Thanks to Justin and Bob that help me to acquire non checkered Belgian made square knob, I was able to convert quite easily a square knob into straight grip. The next step into the following example is to do the fine details sanding and make the checkering. It is not difficult to do but rather tedious.
Marc that is looking very nice. What stock do you think I should attempt to convert? The Jap 16 or the American Browning 12 gauge stock?
If you think you can remove the checkering of the Japanese stock with respecting the width at the tang of an original straight grip, that will be my choice. The best option will be to get a 16 gauge Belgian made square knob like mine. I saw one, 16 gauge, on our favorite European auction site. It might be still there?
