Speed load on light 20 auto-5

Discussion in 'Firearm Maintenance, Modification, Safety And Trou' started by Carbine.killer, Apr 28, 2023.

  1. Bought this light 20 and speed load isn’t working as it should. The shell hangs about 1/2 its length out of the magazine and won’t transfer up to the barrel unless i push on the bottom of the shell lifter. I’m thinking it could be a weak magazine spring - can anybody tell me if that would fix the problem please? Unfortunately the gunsmith i’ve used for auto-5 problems has retired and i haven’t been able to find a competent replacement in the area - figure if anybody's gone “practice” on my gun it oughta be me….
  2. Rudolph31

    Rudolph31 .30-06

    It could be the magazine spring. How does the gun function otherwise? If you load more than one shell, you should get the same problem on the last shot.

    The good news is that you can change the magazine spring without the special, thin screwdrivers. But if you’re going to start ordering parts, you may as well plan on replacing the action and recoil springs too.

    You will need those screwdrivers to remove the stock. I recommend you order them from Brownell’s. Midwest Gun Works sells a set by Grace, but I’ve had them break.

    Get your parts from MGW, and download the Field Service Manual from there.

    https://www.midwestgunworks.com/browning-auto-5/parts.html
    Auzzie and KyBoB like this.
  3. It does - ive been using it on the sporting clays course and it doesn’t hang up all the time - thank you for the info - ill try that shortly!!!! When it hangs i can just push from the bottom up and it usually finishes the process. Hate to bother anybody but ill probably be asking more questions…. Im gone have to learn how to keep em running because there really aren’t any gunsmiths in my area - one guy i tried a few years back “fixed” a std 12 for me then i didnt shoot it until i went in the swamp - woodies all over me and it wouldnt shoot if i pointed the gun past a 45 degree angle soooo i went hungry that trip haha
    Thanks again - ill be back n touch after i attempt to fix
  4. Ranger6

    Ranger6 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator Forum Moderator

    I would add make sure the mag tube is clean and free of grime, I have found some strange things in there. I also put a lite amount of oil inside the tube. More like patch with oil on it and usually use a cleaning jig. One pass and you’re good to go.
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  5. Ok thanks again!!!
  6. Rudolph31

    Rudolph31 .30-06

    It occurs to me that if pushing on the Carrier — as Browning calls the lifter — clears the problem, it’s probably not the magazine spring. The Carrier is supposed to be latched down until the rim of the shell hits the Carrier Latch, releasing it. Of course, with Speed Load, half the Carrier is free to move all of the time, but the shell won’t be lifted until the rest is unlatched.

    It could be that the sluggish operation just means the gun needs a good cleaning. But replacing those springs is a good place to start. Ranger is right about cleaning the gunk out of the mag. The Action Spring Tube is another spot that grime likes to accumulate in. I use a .45 brush for that.
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  7. I ordered parts last night - i really appreciate the help!!!! Waiting on screwdriver set before attempting though cause i dont want to mess up the screws - see a lot on gunbroker with bad screws …. Thats what tells me somebody - most likely that shouldn’t have been - has tampered with the gun.
    Another subject but would you have any suggestions on where i might find a mag 20 for sale other than gunbroker / guns international / guns america? I wouldn’t mind paying the $2500 “tax” to have one but ive seen beat up guns at that price…. Or if you know/suggest where a 2000 model 20ga with 3” barrel is or a B80 20ga with 3” barrel?
  8. Ranger6

    Ranger6 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator Forum Moderator

    Arts gun shop. Expect to pay
  9. Light 20 working good now - thanks for all the help/direction!!! You were right cause i found lint / dirt / dove feathers and general gunk in the mag tube!!! Went ahead with new mag spring since id already ordered one - old spring was about 2” shorter!!! Probably never been changed but shes working like new now - plan to sneak over to the gunclub after the mothers day festivities and put a few shells thru it
  10. Part 2….
    When i went to shoot today i had a big problem to put it mildly - apparently what i thought fixed the problem made it worse! I tested this a couple of times the other day and everything seemed fine so when i shot at the club sunday i used another 20 id bought for my daughter-n-law because id put new parts on to soften up the recoil. That gun worked perfectly with the new springs and i used it on the whole course - never actually shot the one the thread started about. Since the screwdriver set still hasnt arrived from part 1 i sprayed some G96 gun cleaner up in the gun and it freed up the gunk. Replaced mag spring and thought everything was good to go - it was not. When i went to speedload today the gun fired without my hand even near the trigger. Never had that happen to me - needless to say it shook me a lil so upon inspection i noticed the firing pin sticking way out of the boltface. Since the screwdriver set i ordered still isnt here - had to get one from midwest cause brownells is out of stock - i broke out the grinder and made one that would fit. Determined to find out WTH happened i got the gun apart and discovered the firing pin was broken completely apart where the actual “pin” part transforms into the machined block part of it. I think what happened is the gunk broke loose and allowed the two pieces enough space to move and it in turn made the pin stick out and stay out of the boltface. Any thoughts or knowledge on what actually happened here guys? Oh and apparently this thing has been broken for some time because where the break is has actually worn smooth - at least thats what im thinking - is there any chance a broken firing pin would cause a speedloading problem?
  11. Ranger6

    Ranger6 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator Forum Moderator

    I don't see the speed load being the culprit, the firing pin sticking out was the cause of the firing. If you had dumped one in the chamber and hit the bolt release, I believe the same thing would have happened. Speed load just does it for you. Clean, replace the firing pin and the other springs, send to me for some final testing.
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  12. Haha reckon how long the testing gone last? So the speedloading problem was cause by gunk and only gunk then - thanks for the info!!! Just curious how often have you heard of the broken firing pin on auto 5’s? Its not a regular thing is it?
  13. Ranger6

    Ranger6 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator Forum Moderator

    Yes, I have seen it a couple times. A regular thing I would say no. Most of these old auto 5's don't get cleaned, or maintained and parts replaced don't happen until there is a problem for most. Most of the guys here change springs, clean and set up correctly and go from there. I always keep extra firing pins in the auto 5 box.
  14. Im planning to do just that!!! Extra parts never hurt as the saying better to have and not need than to need and not have usually holds true. Thank you again for the direction - feel a lot better now that ive taken one all the way apart and knowing i can count on help from everybody!!!
    KyBoB and Ranger6 like this.
  15. Rudolph31

    Rudolph31 .30-06

    I had the firing pin break on my 1947 12 gauge. The breakage was due to the rail breaking off of the locking block. According to Art (of Art’s Gunshop) that was a common problem on pre-1958 Auto-5’s that had the thin rail. You have the thick rail, the kind that doesn’t break but instead may break the bolt itself. Best check it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  16. Ok thanks for the info - far as i can tell the other parts look to be alright
  17. Well hate to say it guys but im back…. First 6/8 shells functioned perfectly then things went south. Shell hung up next shot then next shot after that it wouldn’t extract. Took it apart today and i have a broken extractor (left side) so im seeking more advice. Ive been looking thru other post and found that forearms should be sanded/free floating. When i took it apart last time i discovered it has a skeet barrel (**$) so i got the idea of swapping the barrel off the other light 20 which has IC (**-) . When i put the new firing pin / springs / forearm and the IC barrel i made sure the forearm was floated. Any thoughts on what happened to make the extractor break? I thought about it and i did put a little bit of grease on the carrier spring to keep it from falling out of place when i put the trigger assembly back in - could that have caused the spring to stick during cycling?
  18. Rudolph31

    Rudolph31 .30-06

    Left extractors are notorious for breaking, especially those made pre-1958. Yours is the beefier variety, but sh!t still happens.
  19. Ranger6

    Ranger6 Administrator Staff Member Administrator Global Moderator Forum Moderator

    I had one break also. If it moved with you finger before installing the bolt, then like Rudolph shit happens. If it does it again then I would start looking at the ammo you’re shooting.
  20. Well that's a relief in a way - just to know i didnt cause it that is …. You’d think id be use to the shit happens by now but since im just startin out on auto5 maintenance i figured it was probably something i did wrong!! Im about to hit the MGW - again!!! Any suggestion on what kind/brand punch set i need for auto5’s? Got by on this project with what i had in the toolbox but i definitely need some longer shank punches!!!

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