Hi, I'm presently taking a gunsmithing course. My project is to install a muzzel break on my A bolt, I've herd nothing but horror stories about taking the barrel and action apart. Does anyone have some good info on how to disassemble my rifle without damaging it. I can't seam to get a strait answer.
Welcome to the Browning Owners Forum MBarton !! Here a link to Browning A Bolt disassembly videos... http://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=bro ... &FORM=VDRE
Welcome to the Browning Owners Community MBarton!! Let us know how the project is going and we would be more than happy to help. BTK
Thanks for the info guys. Last night I separated my barrel from the action. It turned out to be very easy. It shows that sometimes you shouldn’t listen to all the hype, and just be careful and do it yourself. In the next few days I’ll be cutting and threading my barrel for a muzzle break. Of course Browning told me and several gunsmiths, that it was too much work to separate them. With the right tools I guess anything can be done. I bought the blank muzzle break for $50.00 CAN. At my favorite gunsmithing shop, where they charge about $200.00 CAN.to do it. They completely supported me, and said if I pull it off they would give me a job. Now my next question to all of you, is the different types of finishes, Bluing, powder coating or??? My muzzle break is made of stainless and I don’t think bluing is the way to go, because it will look stupid. So what are my options?
hey Yorker, welcome to the browning owners community!! when you say delay, what part is it delaying, pulling the trigger, cycling a round, etc...? the A-bolt is not a complex design, i would first check the firing pin and check the ammo you are using. make sure the firing pin looks good and the ammo doesn't deformed, damaged, etc... BTK
If it's worse when it's cold, it could be oil, grease or gunk inside the bolt body impeding the firing pin. Field strip the bolt and clean the inside of the bolt along with the spring and firing pin assembly. Remove any grease or oil from the firing pin and spring, and reassemble. Just a drop or two of oil to coat the surfaces before assembling should be sufficient. http://www.gunreports.com/special_repor ... 836-1.html
where is hte new post button???? why can I only reply to existing posts??? Anyway, hopefully someone will read and answer my question. I have a couple or left hand a-bolt micro's one in 223 and 243. I needed a full size stock, and there is very little choise so in hte end I bought a RH bell and carson medalist stock and converted it o left hand. Works ok, but I had to deepen the bottom metal inletting by nealy 1/8" and recess the floorplate in below the stock line to getthe magbox anywhere near the receiver so the bolt could pick up a round. I put htis down to a poor inlet job on hte part of B & C, but I've just got a McMillan stock and its bottome inletting is exactly the same and will need major work to get it to fit. So my question is...does the micro have a different bottom metal, or shallower mag box than the full size stock models? Cheers Grant
Hey Grant, welcome to the Browning Owners community!! you can create a new post by clicking on the new topic button on the previous page. Sorry, not sure i can be much of help with your question but hopefully someone else can chime in with some info. BTK
Factory ammo, or handloads? Has the rifle every functioned properly for you, or has it sometimes misfired since you got it? I had an A-bolt II in 25WSSM. While it's a larger-than-normal bolt face, it's a fairly standard 223-length action, and works the same as the rest.
The Micro has a 3 round Magazine and the standard A-Bolt has a 4 rounder. A buddy of mine fell and broke the stock on his Micro and find out how hard it is to replace. I was going to loan him a synthetic stock for the standard and a 4 shot mag. I figured the "cut down version" Micro was just that. The smaller stock is cut down and the mag well is shallower.
