Slide won't lock back at all now when mag empty

Discussion in 'Browning 1911-22 Handgun' started by ShooterGranny, Dec 23, 2022.

  1. ShooterGranny

    ShooterGranny .270 WIN

    NO PROBLEM. I figured you had to be talking about a different gun! I've also been shooting for a few decades, but now "in my dotage" (read: over 80) I'm finding that I need a lot more help with things that my formerly sharp brain used to figure out and solve on its own! In fact, one of my most used phrases lately has been "old brain strikes again!" The Granny part of my screen name is for real.

    Peace be with you.
  2. JimCunn

    JimCunn .410

    "Jim, I'm thoroughly confused and getting more so. Are you talking about the spring that is inside the magazine?"

    Oops, yes - I was thinking about the 380, not the 22. Sorry.
    The 22 accomplishes the same thing with the plastic lip protrusion on the follower.
  3. JimCunn

    JimCunn .410

    I'm only 80, halfway to 81. Been shooting for a bit over 70 years, 74 maybe - I don't remember. My Dad would know - wish I could ask him.

    BTW, I haven't tried it yet, but it looks like the 22 magazine buttplate can be removed by depressing the two plastic locking tabs on the side of the butplate and pushing the rear of the buttplate down, pivoting about the locking tab on the front of the buttplate. Reverse the process to reinstall.
  4. ShooterGranny

    ShooterGranny .270 WIN

    Yes, it LOOKS like you can do that. However, when a person phones Browning to ask about how to take those magazines apart and reports that he was told that it can NOT be done, I tend to believe that information. For what new magazines cost I'm not going to try taking one apart and ruining it.

    Update on the no slide lock back issue: I took the gun the other day and used Aguila Super Extra ammo. The slide did lock back more times than it didn't so it seems that the Browning prefers the Aguila. I shot 90 rounds and it took the entire rest of the day and evening for the primer stench to finally get gone (out of my nose!) I'll be glad when the weather is warm so we can shoot outside again!
  5. JimCunn

    JimCunn .410

    I'm out of state for a family funeral. When I get back home, I'll take one apart and report back.
  6. 217jerrym

    217jerrym .22LR

    A couple of thoughts for ya Granny. I've had mine for about a month now & had 2 hiccups right out of the box. First was the mag would not go all the way in without holding in on the mag release. A little sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper on the mag release took care of that. Second was the problem you're having. I solved mine by slightly sanding & polishing the area (only) where the slide stop plunger contacts the slide stop. Next, make sure the slide stop pin that goes through the frame & barrel is lubed. Last, try using SV ammo. I believe maybe the mags were to fast on the slide for the slide stop to catch. A couple other little mods I did to mine were on the leaf spring and the hammer spring. My leaf spring was way wonkie. It had way to much pressure on the disconector leg. ( = pressure on the slide) I set both my disco & sear legs at 18 oz of pressure which gave me a 4# trigger. Next I removed 1 1/2 coils from the hammer spring resulting in a nice 3 1/2# trigger. Hope this might help.
    JimCunn likes this.
  7. JimCunn

    JimCunn .410

    Also, check to make sure you have a 22 slidestop installed, and not the 380 slidestop.
  8. ShooterGranny

    ShooterGranny .270 WIN

    All good advice and many thanks - but I do not know how to take guns apart or to do that kind of work on them. It would cost me probably $150 minimum to have my gunsmith do it. Since the slide does go to slide lock at least half of the time and since this is a range toy - and since that model was expensive in the beginning, I am leaving it as it is.

    I have no problem with the strength of the trigger pull. It is in line with my other guns and that suits me. I'm sticking to Mini mags and Aguila super extra because that is what I have the most of in my stock. They both shoot well.

    I do properly lube the slide stop pin and I clean the gun regularly. @JimCunn - I did check to make sure the slide stop is the .22 model and not the .380 model.

    The one "mod" I did was to use Glow-On paint over the tiny fiber optic vials because they are so small that they did not show up with the lower lighting at the indoor range. Three nice big bright white dots like on my S&W .22 compact would have been much preferable and I wasted the extra $100+ in buying the model with the fiber optic sights. "The guys" at the gun store which has super bright florescent lights talked me into this model. We live and learn - sometimes.
  9. 217jerrym

    217jerrym .22LR

    Granny, just for sitz & grins you ought to try SV just to see. It was the main problem solver with mine.
  10. ShooterGranny

    ShooterGranny .270 WIN

    Is that standard velocity? I have a brick of Norma TAC-22 velocity 1100 fps "high performance target," lead RN, given to me as an 85th birthday present from one of my shooting buddies and it would not cycle my other .22's My Keltecs flat out refused it. I think my S&W .22 compact refused to eat it also. Norma is generally really good ammo and I would like to use this stuff. I think my friend had it for quite a while but the rounds still look pristine.

    Perhaps I'll load a magazine with it this week to see for sure if it will work in the Browning. Or not. I also have some ELEY target, 1090 fps specified on the ELEY website, and I might try that also. Might as well at least try to use what I already have. I'm not inclined to buy one more brand when I have enough of the other two to last a while - and I totally hate to run to town and buy a box of this or that from local stores. I did that once time when I was testing one of my guns for ammo-accuracy.

    If this was a carry gun or something I would seriously think about keeping at my bedside it would be different. But my faithful SIG P238's fill that purpose beautifully. I am happy when my toys work properly but I don't stress over them unless they are in need of a trip to the mother ship.

    I do appreciate your concern and willingness to help this toy become "perfect" for me.
    KyBoB likes this.
  11. JimCunn

    JimCunn .410

    Have you checked the plastic 'platform' protrusion on the 22 mag follower that engages the slidestop to see if it has worn and rounded off from use? That can cause your symptoms. If so, a small flat file from Harbor Freight and/or an exacto knife can be used to carefully flatten the top surface of the platform again.
    Last edited: Nov 6, 2023
  12. 217jerrym

    217jerrym .22LR

    That's the problem with the slide stop. So many contact points ( frame, slide, barrel, magazine & stop plunger) that enteracts with the function.
  13. JimCunn

    JimCunn .410

    Yes, but problems with shape or protrusion of the 22 follower platform are the usual cause of failure to lock back on the last round.
  14. 217jerrym

    217jerrym .22LR

    But in Granny's case it happens on all six of her magazines.
    ShooterGranny likes this.
  15. JimCunn

    JimCunn .410

    Good point.
  16. 217jerrym

    217jerrym .22LR

    Update. On mine, the slide would lock back after the last round consistantly but also started to peen the slide. This is caused by the slide stop moving out just a small amount during shooting. So, have the slide lock back after the last round and let the slide get peened or drill a small divet in the stop so it keeps the slide stop fully inserted and not have the last round lock back? I choose to save the slide.
  17. JimCunn

    JimCunn .410

    I have used a file to reshape some of my slidestop tabs so that they better match the shape of the slide notches. Spreads the load a bit.
    KyBoB likes this.

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