BAR Mk I questions

Discussion in 'Browning BAR Rifle' started by Eagle Rider, Apr 23, 2016.

  1. Okay... getting a new old slab side manufacture date 1968 Mk I 30-06. I'm told its unfired and been a safe queen. It was owned by a collector, one of eight that he had. They were part of an estate sale. I got the last one. I do plan on using it, and will even hunt with it. Here are my questions.

    Scope- I have a Leupold VX II 3-9 for it. Looking for advise on mounts. From everything I am reading that all steel receiver's are capable of 1.5" groups. What's going to get me there best, one or two piece bases make a difference? Better all steel like Leupold, or aluminum is just as good (Warne Maxima). Lastly better with a mount system like Talley or a traditional base and ring combo.

    Also, this rifle has no butt pad, I am planning on having my smith do a grind fit decelerator pad shotgun style so its vented, I think that will look better. I know it is a shame to do this to this rifle, but I need her to be a shooter.
  2. SHOOTER13

    SHOOTER13 Guest

    Sounds like a plan brother...and that scope is awesome.

    Good scope calls for good...I'd go steel.
  3. Hairtrigger

    Hairtrigger .270 WIN

    Can't go wrong with Leupold one piece mount. Aluminum if weight is a concern
    I bet if you find the right load it will easily be sub Moa
    I have a Belgium made BAR in 308 and love it
    Shoot it first before adding recoil pad.... Keep it all original for me!
  4. After talking to many people at Browning (they are awesome to deal with) it was suggested that premium factory ammo anywhere from 150 to 180 gr will work best for me. I went with Barnes Vortex 168 gr ammo, it shoots clover leafs, yes CLOVER LEAFS, at 100 yds! Very pleased. No recoil at all after the Pachmayr pad was installed. It is loud as hell though. When it arrived I tore the whole thing apart, the only thing it needed was a new nylon buffer plate ($5.00 from Numerich Arms, so bought an extra and a spare piston spring as well). The oil had sat in it so long (since 1968) that it turned to varnish in the gas port. I cleaned that out with a small muzzle loader touch hole brush and some #9. After 5 shots to get on paper with cheap federal blue box 180 gr stuff I had laying around I snaked the barrel and let it cool. The next six shots were what is on this pic. The 5th shot printed on the outside at 5 o'clock, made a quick east/west adjustment, and the 6th one printed at 7:00 on the outside near the edge. The 7th was a north/south adjustment and that printed up at 11:00 on the edge. I snaked the barrel again and let it cool making the final adjustments. The following relay when the line was called hot shots 8-10 were right down the center of the pickle barrel. It is now safe to say that I love this rifle! The solid steel of the Leopold one piece base and the steel rings were the way to go (thanks for the advice fellas). I did go with a straight plex 3-9 Zeiss Terra scope that I from my last Longtrac that I sold (which I'm happy I did). The Zeiss is a terrific piece of glass, very clear and bright. There is no question how tight a performer it is as a total package (gun, glass, hardware and ammo). I am really glad I jumped on this. It will likely be my go-to deer rifle from now on.

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    Last edited: Jun 10, 2016
  5. This is a pic of the rifle as well.

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  6. this rifle never ceases to amaze me..... the groups just seem to get a smidge tighter very time I shoot it. Today I love this thing!!

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