I know this is a heavily talked about topic. I've read for hours upon hours on this and various other forums, looking for a fix for my issues. I bought the Browning due to the false advertisement that it had mechanical triggers. Anyway... I have the 725 Sporting with 30" barrels in 12 gauge. I have recently purchased some 28 gauge companion tubes from Briley. I absolutely love shooting the 28 gauge for skeet but like the 12 gauge for sporting clays. But, what I don't love is the often failure to fire. I have talked to browning and they are well aware of the issues. They admit that the mechanically trigger still needs recoil to switch between barrels. The 2 Hammers are indeed mechanical but it takes inertia to switch the trigger mechanism between barrels. I asked if I could buy the trigger assembly for a 28 gauge and swap it for my 12 gauge. They said it will not fit as its a different size. I asked about the internals of the 28 gauge trigger and what was different and he said he wasn't really sure. He did recommend that I call Midwest gun works and talk with one of their gunsmiths. He said they aren't held to the same corporate liability standards and could give me more advice as to what needs to be done. I played phone tag with them yesterday and I'm still hoping to get a call back from the gunsmith at Midwest today. If I do I will for sure relay what I'm told. So, in all the reading I've done.....No one has came out and said what had to be done to get the trigger to work efficiently or this is what my gunsmith did, etc. I see where lots of guys have had issues and came on the forum and asked questions, then came back and said they had it fixed but didn't mention what that fix was or rather they never came back or commented. I've sent PM after PM to the original posters of these threads and got zero response. My 725 is currently at a gunsmith being evaluated. He is going to try and polish up some parts and stone some parts and see if that helps. He also agrees its odd that the trigger will work fine with snap caps but not with light loads. We were able to replicate my issues while I was at his shop. When my 725 fails to fire its like the trigger is dead. As if its not even cocked. He showed me where its getting hung up. The hammer, and it doesn't matter which barrel is fired first, was hanging up on the Sear. The hammer has 2 notches cut in it. Supposedly one is for a safety type feature and that is where the second barrel sear is hanging up on. When there is enough recoil this doesn't happen. You can often times keep pulling the trigger over and over and it will jiggle the gun enough to get it to release and then the gun will fire. If you have had this issue with a failure to fire and you have found a fix please let me know.
Sorry Jason...above my pay grade. But I'm sure some member here with more experience will weigh in...hang tight.
Yeah, something strange is going on there. I hate to say it, but having a gunsmith look at it is the best route. As for the trigger, I can attest that the 725 does have a mechanical trigger. While I have never tried subbies in mine, I have clicked off numerous non-firing rounds, from snap-caps to spent shells, all without failure. I don't know why you were told that the 725 still needs inertia to cycle over, because that simply is not true. Incidentally, I know that Yildiz had a similar problem a short while back with their doubles. Briley Choke Tubes (the company that imports them into the US) handles their repairs, and they seemed to have fixed the problem. From what I recall, it actually had to do with the firing pins, ironically enough. I would give them a call and talk to one of their techs. They might be of assistance, especially if the two brands share similar internal designs. Good luck!
Browning actually told me that the trigger isn't truly mechanical that it take inertia to switch between barrels. Mine too will also snap with snap caps but will not fire bo h barrels with light loads. They admit that it's only meant to be mechanical with 12 and 20 gauge. My gunsmith has polished up the trigger parts and smooth out the angle of the selector and says it's working good but wants me to give it a good workout. The gunsmith and Briley both have confirmed that it's not a true mechanical trigger. QUOTE="Rob poston, post: 24524, member: 2949"]Yeah, something strange is going on there. I hate to say it, but having a gunsmith look at it is the best route. As for the trigger, I can attest that the 725 does have a mechanical trigger. While I have never tried subbies in mine, I have clicked off numerous non-firing rounds, from snap-caps to spent shells, all without failure. I don't know why you were told that the 725 still needs inertia to cycle over, because that simply is not true. Incidentally, I know that Yildiz had a similar problem a short while back with their doubles. Briley Choke Tubes (the company that imports them into the US) handles their repairs, and they seemed to have fixed the problem. From what I recall, it actually had to do with the firing pins, ironically enough. I would give them a call and talk to one of their techs. They might be of assistance, especially if the two brands share similar internal designs. Good luck![/QUOTE] Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk[/QUOTE] Interesting. If it is not mechanical, I don't know what it could be. There is no inertia when firing snap caps, so if any recoil is required at all, then it would not cycle at all. I don't doubt that Browning told you this, I just don't know why they told you this. If anything, a sub-gauge of any kind would still be more inertia than snap caps. Still, I am glad your gunsmith has it figured out. Hope it all works out well for you.
Gun is working great now. The stoning of the sears and connectors along with a slight change of the angle on the connector seems to have fixed my issues.
Joe , Sarasota here.... Everything you wrote and are going thru I have just started to go thru... Started shooting lite 7/8 oz loads and second round can hang up... 1: The trigger action is FLAWED... its IS a mechanical trigger but will NOT function 100% with LITE loads... 2: Per browning the gun is designed for 12 gauge shells at 1oz greater, is a BS excuse... I have seen NO advertisement limiting the loads... cough BS... 3: I have read on quite a few threads that cleaning the action HAS helped... I sprayed mine with STRIKE HOLD and will be testing today... 4: There ARE GEN1 and GEN2 Springs, but ALL new guns come with the GEN2... Not that it matters the problem persists. 5: 410 and 28 gauge tubes will NOT work in this gun... I think its time for a class action LAWsuit... Im willing to join...
I took mine to a good gunsmith. He stoned the sears and changed the angle a little on the connectors and mine now works flawlessly with the 28gauge tubes. If you can find a good gun smith he can fix it. It cost me $45 for the fix. It also still works well with 12 gauge loads.
Thanks for the information... So for me the Cleaning was not enough... Happened to me twice today... And to make matters worse, it happened with factory loads... 1 1/8 oz Win AA shells...
I was using the factory AA loads as well in 28's when mine started acting up. Now I can shoot whatever. Factory or reloads work great.
Just to report back. This fix worked for 410 tubes as well. Fires every time without any issues with 12's, 28's and 410's. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
